Myanmar, what an experience - ENGLISH
Blijf op de hoogte en volg Martin
13 November 2013 | Myanmar, Hsipaw
Finally I've found the time to write my report about Myanmar in English for some friends I met during my trip. It is the translated story I posted in Dutch a while ago. It is writen like I posted it at that time.
I have been back in China since Tuesday and I already miss Myanmar again. I miss the tea, the coffee, the pagodas and most of all the people. The 3 week trip is certainly one to remember.
My trip started 3 weeks ago with quite a train journey, from Wuhan to Kunming. The first 20 hours of my train ride aren't really worth mentioning. After those 20 hours some really cool-looking mountains passed by. The people in the train didn't speak English so I didn't really get a chance to speak much with the other Chinese people going to Kunming. Once I arrived it was about time to search for my guest house and sleep, because my flight to Guangzhou would leave early next morning. I flew from Guangzhou to Yangon on the same day.
My first impression of Myanmar was really good. Especially the fact that the taxi driver did not try to rip me off for a change surprised me. During my taxi ride it became clear that my taxi driver was actually a guide with a side job. He told me about all kinds of places where I would go. It was then that I already had the feeling that two weeks would be too short. I was friendly received by the staff of Agga guest House. I decided to rest for a while and then make an evening walk (on flip flops, turned out to be quite a mistake). I already saw a part of the Shwedagon Pagoda form the taxi, but seeing it at night was certainly worth the walk.
Day 2 in Yangon will be remembered as a surprise. On my way to the Shwedagon Pagoda (I wanted to see the pagoda from up close) I came across a little shining temple. Here I met two girls from America, with whom I spent the rest of the day with. The pagoda itself was very impressing, especially after the rain which caused the pagoda to shine even more. Later that day we decided to take the Yangon Round Train (it is still unclear whether we had found that train or not). After one of the American girls asked (well.... asked... she made a circle with her fingers0 one of the locals if this was the round train they nodded no. We decided to jump off the train at the next stop and get ourselves something to drink. My first real contact with the locals became a fact. Two guys joined us and we drank and chatted for a while (1/4 of English, 3/4 of gestures). After a while they helped us to take the right bus back to the guest house.
I spent my last day in Yangon around the guest house because I had to take the bus that evening. There is a market near the guest house where I obviously needed to buy a Longyi (a sort of long skirt, worn by man and females), as a souvenir. I met another American that evening that also went to Bagan on the same bus. The journey was actually quite comfortable and I actually managed to get some sleep.
At least, that is until you arrive. For some reason (actually no reason) busses depart early in the evening and arrive really early in the morning (5 AM). We managed to find a guest house to get another few hours of sleep. After that we moved to another hotel and we rented a horse cart for the rest of that day (they are the normal taxis in Bagan). Because we did not know which temples were the most beautiful/important (there are a whole bunch of temples in Bagan) this was the best way to see them. You were allowed to climb to the higher-levels on some of the temples, which resulted in a beautiful view. The temple we climbed with sunset was packed with people around 5 o'clock. Unfortunately there wasn't much of a sunset, but the sight itself and the rainbow made up for that lack. When the sun finally went down we decided to eat at an Indian restaurant. I do still remember that the food was really delicious!
For day 2 in Bagan we rented some e-bikes to see some more temples. It was another day of watching temples and Buddha’s, but what I especially recall is the place where we had lunch. Somewhere hidden behind a maze of roads is a somewhat luxurious restaurant with a river view and delicious food. (Yes in Myanmar even I can afford that). We spent the rest of the day watching some temples and then we went back to the hotel. It was there that I noticed that I had forgot something, namely to put sunblock on my hands and feet, both were burned quite heavily and judging from the blisters I was going to have a great time putting socks on for the coming days. The American girl went on to Inle that same evening, while I planned to stay another day in Bagan and then head on to Mandalay.
I chose to go to mt Popa for my last day in Bagan. I had seen enough temples and Buddha’s in the last 2 days. The taxi ride takes about 90 minutes and goes straight to some pieces of jungle, which was great to see. The mountain itself was quite spectacular from a distance. Climbing the mountain was quite easy, getting rid of the monkeys following you turned out to be quite a different thing. The view from the top of the mountain was great, especially because there are no other mountains on one side. In the afternoon I decided to go back, rest and then plan some parts of the next days in Myanmar.
Because the taxi driver told me I should take the boat, I did that. It would take me about 12 hours and it was a really good alternative for the bus. The view from the boat was somewhat disappointing, but a day of relaxing and resting wouldn't do any harm. Especially not because I would arrive late in Mandalay and had to leave really early the next day. I would wake up at 2 AM to catch the train to Hsipaw.
Now the train to Hsipaw was surprising. It started with a four hour delay (instead of leaving at 4, it left at 8) but the train ride made up for the delay. The shaky ride didn't really provide a basis to catch up some sleep, but that was a good thing. The view was really amazing and I knew we still would go over the Gotheik Bridge. When the train passed over the bridge the view was really extraordinary, but the bridge itself was not really shaky as described in some of the travel books (I think that is a good thing ;))
Once I arrived in Hsipaw I got all kinds of business cards from different guest houses. I read about Mr. Charles and decided to go there. That was certainly one thing I won't regret doing. The breakfast was really delicious. I decided to take a day of rest and only went for a short walk to the waterfall and arranged the 3 day trekking tour that day.
My first reasons to go to Myanmar were the homestays. I really wanted to see how the local people lived and what their habits are. That certainly succeeded during my 3 day 2 night trekking trip. What I will remember the best are the little children who sad bye bye to you in every village you came across (They still need to learn the difference between bye-bye and hello). The first day at the trek was pretty hard. It was about 38 degrees and we walked uphill in the sun for the whole day. All trees had been replaced by tea plants which meant a lack of shade the whole day. The reception of the first night was really great and it was somewhat more luxurious then I expected! The rest we got was definitely needed after such a though day. The people in the monastery next to "our house” were practicing for a festival that would soon be held. Inside the monastery two girls danced and practiced and there was some "live music", it was very interesting to see.
We had to continue our trip the next day. We decided to first take a quick look around the town and then we were on to the next village. They were surprised at the local school when some white people showed up. We took some pictures (they took some as well) and then we had to continue our trip. The trip itself was a lot less though (colder and flat), but that didn’t mean the view got boring. We arrived in the overnight village in the afternoon, where our guide decided to stay in another house (he only just needed to arrange it). This house was way less luxurious than the first one. We were with 12 people in a wooden house (normally there are 6 people in the house), sleeping on the ground and the only furniture was a table, but it was great! The hospitality was great and to see how the people really lived was super! I certainly felt spoilt, living in the Netherlands and such.
Day 3 consisted of walking back, gladly downhill. I could still take a short kind-of shower in the hot springs (more of a concrete pool but still... it was hot) and then I had to take the bus to Inle lake. The man next to me must have been very happy that I jumped in the hot pool because after 3 days of not showering I must have smelled really bad. All in all the trip was better than I expected. The guide was able to tell a reasonable amount about the villages and was really hilarious. Especially the fact that he confused yes and no sometimes gave some funny situations. The 3 days were really the highlight of my trip in Myanmar!
I arrived at Inle the next day. Because of the festival (must-see) I had a really difficult time to get a room but after two hours I finally managed to get one. Because I only had 1,5 day in Inle I had no time to rest and decided to go to the market that was there due to the festival. The market was really great to walk around. On my way back to the guest house I ran into the 2 American girls who I met in Yangon again. Turned out that Myanmar was quite a small place. We drank some Burmese Tea (Really good!) and then they had to continue their trip to Bago, while I still had one day at Inle. They told me that I had to visit the market during the night, which I then did. The market was really different during the night, a lot more food, a better audience and a lot more people. It is a habit that people in a group grab on to each other and don't let go, this meant a lot of pushing for me, but it was all really cosy.
My last day at Inle was there. It was my last real day in Myanmar really. I rented a boat to go across the lake to view the most important things. The lake was fantastic. The first thing I noticed were the fishermen. They row with their legs. They hold on to their peddle with one arm and then row with their leg. Another thing to notice were the houses, whole villages were built on poles in the lake. The pictures speak for themselves. After that I went to a small restaurant to drink some coffee (on the land again). It was here that I learned tips aren't quite common, even in western looking restaurants. The owner screamed at me when I left because I left some money on the table. After explaining that it was a tip and a lot of thank yous it was time to go back.
Unfortunately I had to take the bus to Yangon the same night, where I would arrive the next day. In Yangon I walked around a park (just a park they sad, it was really beautiful) and I found a Dutch store. I decided to drink some coffee there and then I had to go to the airport. The last taxi driver tried to rip me off, which I thought was really funny, because he was the first to try in Myanmar.../
Then some general things about Myanmar
The people are lovely! You'll be invited to drink tea with the people. On other places they will join you with a drink. Everyone will stare at you like you are an alien, but always with a smile. Wave at them and they will wave back, and their smile will become even bigger!
Longyi's are quite comfortable, unless you're walking with them. It's some sort of long skirt that you tie in a special way. If you wear them, people will laugh at you (as noticed in Inle lake, where the American girl wore one), but you'll get in contact with the locals even easier.
When locals talk about the government/rebels/ethnic conflicts, try to understand them and be honest with them. The people really enjoy the fact that you give your opinion and they are happy that foreigners are interested in the problems in Myanmar and not just the positive things. DO watch out with who you are talking to, as my trip back to Yangon was quite unpleasant when I talked with a "government official".
And then I’ll steal one thing of the American girl’s blog. Understand that there are still a lot of problems:
during the 2 weeks I was there, there were fights between the army and rebels in the north, ethnic conflicts in the south, fighting in the northeast 9about 5 km from where I stayed at that time) and there was a bomb in Yangon at a hotel and a bus station on the day I left
Once I arrived back in China it turned out to be quite good. I slept quite well and I could go back to Wuhan the next day. This is where I Knew I was back in China. People who weren't as friendly, no smiles, no one who speaks English (which some people did in Myanmar) and I was a witness of a pickpocketing act (the lady got her IPhone back)... yeah, Wuhan is quite the opposite form Myanmar...
For pictures please click "reisverslagen" --> Myanmar what an experience
I have been back in China since Tuesday and I already miss Myanmar again. I miss the tea, the coffee, the pagodas and most of all the people. The 3 week trip is certainly one to remember.
My trip started 3 weeks ago with quite a train journey, from Wuhan to Kunming. The first 20 hours of my train ride aren't really worth mentioning. After those 20 hours some really cool-looking mountains passed by. The people in the train didn't speak English so I didn't really get a chance to speak much with the other Chinese people going to Kunming. Once I arrived it was about time to search for my guest house and sleep, because my flight to Guangzhou would leave early next morning. I flew from Guangzhou to Yangon on the same day.
My first impression of Myanmar was really good. Especially the fact that the taxi driver did not try to rip me off for a change surprised me. During my taxi ride it became clear that my taxi driver was actually a guide with a side job. He told me about all kinds of places where I would go. It was then that I already had the feeling that two weeks would be too short. I was friendly received by the staff of Agga guest House. I decided to rest for a while and then make an evening walk (on flip flops, turned out to be quite a mistake). I already saw a part of the Shwedagon Pagoda form the taxi, but seeing it at night was certainly worth the walk.
Day 2 in Yangon will be remembered as a surprise. On my way to the Shwedagon Pagoda (I wanted to see the pagoda from up close) I came across a little shining temple. Here I met two girls from America, with whom I spent the rest of the day with. The pagoda itself was very impressing, especially after the rain which caused the pagoda to shine even more. Later that day we decided to take the Yangon Round Train (it is still unclear whether we had found that train or not). After one of the American girls asked (well.... asked... she made a circle with her fingers0 one of the locals if this was the round train they nodded no. We decided to jump off the train at the next stop and get ourselves something to drink. My first real contact with the locals became a fact. Two guys joined us and we drank and chatted for a while (1/4 of English, 3/4 of gestures). After a while they helped us to take the right bus back to the guest house.
I spent my last day in Yangon around the guest house because I had to take the bus that evening. There is a market near the guest house where I obviously needed to buy a Longyi (a sort of long skirt, worn by man and females), as a souvenir. I met another American that evening that also went to Bagan on the same bus. The journey was actually quite comfortable and I actually managed to get some sleep.
At least, that is until you arrive. For some reason (actually no reason) busses depart early in the evening and arrive really early in the morning (5 AM). We managed to find a guest house to get another few hours of sleep. After that we moved to another hotel and we rented a horse cart for the rest of that day (they are the normal taxis in Bagan). Because we did not know which temples were the most beautiful/important (there are a whole bunch of temples in Bagan) this was the best way to see them. You were allowed to climb to the higher-levels on some of the temples, which resulted in a beautiful view. The temple we climbed with sunset was packed with people around 5 o'clock. Unfortunately there wasn't much of a sunset, but the sight itself and the rainbow made up for that lack. When the sun finally went down we decided to eat at an Indian restaurant. I do still remember that the food was really delicious!
For day 2 in Bagan we rented some e-bikes to see some more temples. It was another day of watching temples and Buddha’s, but what I especially recall is the place where we had lunch. Somewhere hidden behind a maze of roads is a somewhat luxurious restaurant with a river view and delicious food. (Yes in Myanmar even I can afford that). We spent the rest of the day watching some temples and then we went back to the hotel. It was there that I noticed that I had forgot something, namely to put sunblock on my hands and feet, both were burned quite heavily and judging from the blisters I was going to have a great time putting socks on for the coming days. The American girl went on to Inle that same evening, while I planned to stay another day in Bagan and then head on to Mandalay.
I chose to go to mt Popa for my last day in Bagan. I had seen enough temples and Buddha’s in the last 2 days. The taxi ride takes about 90 minutes and goes straight to some pieces of jungle, which was great to see. The mountain itself was quite spectacular from a distance. Climbing the mountain was quite easy, getting rid of the monkeys following you turned out to be quite a different thing. The view from the top of the mountain was great, especially because there are no other mountains on one side. In the afternoon I decided to go back, rest and then plan some parts of the next days in Myanmar.
Because the taxi driver told me I should take the boat, I did that. It would take me about 12 hours and it was a really good alternative for the bus. The view from the boat was somewhat disappointing, but a day of relaxing and resting wouldn't do any harm. Especially not because I would arrive late in Mandalay and had to leave really early the next day. I would wake up at 2 AM to catch the train to Hsipaw.
Now the train to Hsipaw was surprising. It started with a four hour delay (instead of leaving at 4, it left at 8) but the train ride made up for the delay. The shaky ride didn't really provide a basis to catch up some sleep, but that was a good thing. The view was really amazing and I knew we still would go over the Gotheik Bridge. When the train passed over the bridge the view was really extraordinary, but the bridge itself was not really shaky as described in some of the travel books (I think that is a good thing ;))
Once I arrived in Hsipaw I got all kinds of business cards from different guest houses. I read about Mr. Charles and decided to go there. That was certainly one thing I won't regret doing. The breakfast was really delicious. I decided to take a day of rest and only went for a short walk to the waterfall and arranged the 3 day trekking tour that day.
My first reasons to go to Myanmar were the homestays. I really wanted to see how the local people lived and what their habits are. That certainly succeeded during my 3 day 2 night trekking trip. What I will remember the best are the little children who sad bye bye to you in every village you came across (They still need to learn the difference between bye-bye and hello). The first day at the trek was pretty hard. It was about 38 degrees and we walked uphill in the sun for the whole day. All trees had been replaced by tea plants which meant a lack of shade the whole day. The reception of the first night was really great and it was somewhat more luxurious then I expected! The rest we got was definitely needed after such a though day. The people in the monastery next to "our house” were practicing for a festival that would soon be held. Inside the monastery two girls danced and practiced and there was some "live music", it was very interesting to see.
We had to continue our trip the next day. We decided to first take a quick look around the town and then we were on to the next village. They were surprised at the local school when some white people showed up. We took some pictures (they took some as well) and then we had to continue our trip. The trip itself was a lot less though (colder and flat), but that didn’t mean the view got boring. We arrived in the overnight village in the afternoon, where our guide decided to stay in another house (he only just needed to arrange it). This house was way less luxurious than the first one. We were with 12 people in a wooden house (normally there are 6 people in the house), sleeping on the ground and the only furniture was a table, but it was great! The hospitality was great and to see how the people really lived was super! I certainly felt spoilt, living in the Netherlands and such.
Day 3 consisted of walking back, gladly downhill. I could still take a short kind-of shower in the hot springs (more of a concrete pool but still... it was hot) and then I had to take the bus to Inle lake. The man next to me must have been very happy that I jumped in the hot pool because after 3 days of not showering I must have smelled really bad. All in all the trip was better than I expected. The guide was able to tell a reasonable amount about the villages and was really hilarious. Especially the fact that he confused yes and no sometimes gave some funny situations. The 3 days were really the highlight of my trip in Myanmar!
I arrived at Inle the next day. Because of the festival (must-see) I had a really difficult time to get a room but after two hours I finally managed to get one. Because I only had 1,5 day in Inle I had no time to rest and decided to go to the market that was there due to the festival. The market was really great to walk around. On my way back to the guest house I ran into the 2 American girls who I met in Yangon again. Turned out that Myanmar was quite a small place. We drank some Burmese Tea (Really good!) and then they had to continue their trip to Bago, while I still had one day at Inle. They told me that I had to visit the market during the night, which I then did. The market was really different during the night, a lot more food, a better audience and a lot more people. It is a habit that people in a group grab on to each other and don't let go, this meant a lot of pushing for me, but it was all really cosy.
My last day at Inle was there. It was my last real day in Myanmar really. I rented a boat to go across the lake to view the most important things. The lake was fantastic. The first thing I noticed were the fishermen. They row with their legs. They hold on to their peddle with one arm and then row with their leg. Another thing to notice were the houses, whole villages were built on poles in the lake. The pictures speak for themselves. After that I went to a small restaurant to drink some coffee (on the land again). It was here that I learned tips aren't quite common, even in western looking restaurants. The owner screamed at me when I left because I left some money on the table. After explaining that it was a tip and a lot of thank yous it was time to go back.
Unfortunately I had to take the bus to Yangon the same night, where I would arrive the next day. In Yangon I walked around a park (just a park they sad, it was really beautiful) and I found a Dutch store. I decided to drink some coffee there and then I had to go to the airport. The last taxi driver tried to rip me off, which I thought was really funny, because he was the first to try in Myanmar.../
Then some general things about Myanmar
The people are lovely! You'll be invited to drink tea with the people. On other places they will join you with a drink. Everyone will stare at you like you are an alien, but always with a smile. Wave at them and they will wave back, and their smile will become even bigger!
Longyi's are quite comfortable, unless you're walking with them. It's some sort of long skirt that you tie in a special way. If you wear them, people will laugh at you (as noticed in Inle lake, where the American girl wore one), but you'll get in contact with the locals even easier.
When locals talk about the government/rebels/ethnic conflicts, try to understand them and be honest with them. The people really enjoy the fact that you give your opinion and they are happy that foreigners are interested in the problems in Myanmar and not just the positive things. DO watch out with who you are talking to, as my trip back to Yangon was quite unpleasant when I talked with a "government official".
And then I’ll steal one thing of the American girl’s blog. Understand that there are still a lot of problems:
during the 2 weeks I was there, there were fights between the army and rebels in the north, ethnic conflicts in the south, fighting in the northeast 9about 5 km from where I stayed at that time) and there was a bomb in Yangon at a hotel and a bus station on the day I left
Once I arrived back in China it turned out to be quite good. I slept quite well and I could go back to Wuhan the next day. This is where I Knew I was back in China. People who weren't as friendly, no smiles, no one who speaks English (which some people did in Myanmar) and I was a witness of a pickpocketing act (the lady got her IPhone back)... yeah, Wuhan is quite the opposite form Myanmar...
For pictures please click "reisverslagen" --> Myanmar what an experience
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